On a crisp October day, the author journeyed to Lumbini, Nepal, the revered site where the Awakened One, Siddhartha Gautama, was born around 563 B.C. There, under the shade of a sacred peepul tree, a retired archaeologist, Basanta Kumar Bidari, shared insights into the site's profound significance. This location is particularly resonant, as it was beneath a similar tree that Buddha attained enlightenment, transcending the cycle of existence. The Buddha's entire life was spent within the region bordering Nepal and northeastern India. Two centuries post-Nirvana, Emperor Ashoka the Great, following a transformative experience of remorse after a military conquest, erected a pillar at this very spot. His conversion to Buddhism ignited its widespread propagation, mirroring the influence of Constantine on Christianity centuries later. Bidari emphasized the unique inscription on Ashoka's pillar, "atana agācha mahīyte" (I myself came here), signifying the emperor's personal pilgrimage and profound respect for Lumbini.
Patan Durbar Square, located in the broader Kathmandu area, is a rich tapestry of historical temples and shrines that beautifully intertwine Buddhist and Hindu traditions. Among its many architectural marvels stands the early 17th-century Vishwanath Temple, a testament to the region's enduring spiritual heritage. This sacred landscape offers a tangible connection to the ancient past, where diverse faiths coexist and flourish.
Reflecting on the sunlit pillar and the distant Maya Devi Temple, the author recalled childhood memories of learning about Buddha's awakening. The tale of Prince Siddhartha Gautama, disturbed by the specter of illness, old age, and mortality, leaving his opulent palace, wife, and child at age 29, resonated deeply. The narrative of the palace gates mysteriously opening for his departure, his renunciation of worldly finery, and his adoption of an ascetic life in India was vivid. However, the almost Hamlet-like sensitivity of Buddha, described as "too delicate," and his acute perception of suffering, as noted by Pankaj Mishra in "An End to Suffering: The Buddha in the World," presented a nuanced understanding. The author, having grown up amidst poverty in India, initially found Siddhartha's sheltered existence somewhat incongruous with his eventual profound realization.
Buddhism, which originated in the Indian subcontinent during the sixth century B.C., stands apart with its lack of a holy book, commandments, or prophets. Yet, its profound teachings spread throughout Asia, seamlessly integrating with local beliefs and customs, forever shaping the continent's cultural and spiritual landscape. This comprehensive cover story, part of T's Travel issue, follows Buddhism's transformative journey through Nepal, Thailand, and Taiwan. Accompanying this exploration are supplementary materials including a map and timeline illustrating the religion's transmission, a glossary of key Buddhist terms, an overview of the diverse architectural marvels of Buddhist monuments, and an essential reading list for further study. The series also features an editor's letter by Hanya Yanagihara, offering additional insights into this captivating subject.